Gel-X tip sizes and shapes: how to choose and fit them

Fit comes first, shape and length come second

People choose Gel-X tips by shape and length, but the first question is fit. A tip that does not match the width and curve of the natural nail will pinch, rock or lift, no matter how nice the shape is.

Apres says tips should sit flush from sidewall to sidewall, with no gaps, and its help center says a tip should cover the natural nail from the cuticle end to the free edge. The same help center describes the two ways a fit can fail. A tip that is too small causes discomfort, pinching and eventual lifting. A tip that is too large, pressed on with heavy force, can come off within a day or two.

So the order is: size first, then curve, then shape, then length. If you choose in that order, you will rarely end up with a set that looks nice and falls off.

How to size a tip, step by step

1. Prep the nails first, or at least push the cuticle back, so you can see the actual width of the plate.
2. Take a tip from the box that looks close to the nail. Hold it against the nail without glue.
3. Check the sidewalls. The tip should touch or sit just outside each side of the nail, with no visible gap on either side. If the tip looks narrower than the nail, size up.
4. Check the cuticle end. The base of the tip should follow the curve of the cuticle area. If it does not, file the base until it does, as Apres advises.
5. Check coverage. The tip should cover the natural nail up to its free edge, not leave a bare strip.
6. Lay the tips out in order on a sheet of paper, left hand then right hand, so you pick them up in sequence.
7. Write down the sizes for the client. They are the same next time.

Sizes are numbers on the tip or on the box, and the numbering differs by system. Check the chart on your box before you start, so you know whether the largest number is the widest or the narrowest. Our Apres refill bags are sold by size number, for example #3, #4 and #5, and by shape and length, so you can restock the sizes that sell most.

What to do between two sizes

This is the most common sizing question, and Apres gives a clear answer on its durability article: pick the larger tip and file down the base so it matches the natural nail. The larger tip covers the whole nail; filing the base adjusts the width and curve at the cuticle end.

Why not the smaller one? A tip that is narrower than the nail leaves a gap along the sidewalls. The gap fills with gel, the gel is thick, and thick gel at the edge is a lifting point. A tip that is too small and pressed down also pinches.

When you file the base, do it gently and from the inside edge, and check it against the nail again. You are shaping the contact area, not shortening the tip. If you use an e-file, go lightly. If you are unsure, test the fit with the tip dry, before you open the gel.

For flat nails, there will still be a small gap under the center of the tip. Apres says extra Extend Gel can fill it, but excess gel must be removed before curing so it does not seep onto the skin and cause a reaction.

Natural vs Sculpted tips

Apres sells Gel-X tips in two curve families, listed in our store as Natural and Sculpted. The Sculpted tips are shaped with more built-in curve, and Apres says that if the natural nail is more curved, the Sculpted tips should be used.

Think of it this way. A flatter natural nail fits a Natural tip with a gentle curve. A strongly curved nail, such as a nail with a visible pinch or a high arch, needs a tip that curves with it, so the tip does not leave a gap at the sidewalls or pop off when it flexes.

The wrong curve is a hidden cause of lifting. The tip looks like it is the right width, but the sides do not follow the nail, so the gel has to bridge a gap. If your set lifts along one side, check the curve. Our lifting guide goes through the other causes.

Shapes: what each one looks like and who it suits

Apres offers these four in Natural and Sculpted, and we stock tip boxes in each shape. Other brands carry more shapes, such as oval, round and ballerina. Look at Gel-X and our acrylic tips for traditional options.

A practical tip: the more tapered the shape, the weaker the free edge. Stiletto and long coffin shapes need good structure, and many techs add a layer of builder over the tip. See Gel-X vs builder gel. Short square and short almond are the most durable choices for hard-working hands.

Lengths: extra short to XX long

Apres Tip Box 2.0 comes in lengths from extra short through short, medium and long to XX long, depending on the shape. Pick the length for the client's lifestyle first and the look second.

• Extra short and short. The sturdiest choice. A good first set for new wearers and anyone who types, cooks or works with their hands.
• Medium. A balanced length with a visible shape. Needs a little more care.
• Long and XX long. More leverage on the nail, so the tip is more likely to break. Keep the tip supported, avoid thin free edges, and consider builder over the top.

A tip's length is the free-edge length from where the tip leaves the natural nail. A client with a short nail bed and a long tip has a lot of leverage on a small bonded area. Choosing a shorter length, or shaping the tip a little shorter after curing, makes the set last longer. As a rule of thumb, a client's first Gel-X set should be one length shorter than the one they have in mind. If they love it, the next set can go longer, and you will both know how their nails handle the extra leverage.

One more point on lengths: boxes are labeled by the tip, not by the finished nail. A medium tip on a short natural nail looks longer than a medium tip on a long nail bed, because the free edge extends from a different starting point. Hold a tip against the nail before you commit to the length.

You can shorten any tip after it is cured. Many techs trim or file the free edge to the exact length they want. File the stress area lightly so you do not thin it out.

Short, bitten or very curved nails

Gel-X can go on short nails as long as there is enough natural nail to bond to. Use the fitting method above, choose a tip that covers the plate from sidewall to sidewall, and file the base to the cuticle curve. Keep the length conservative at first. A client with a very short nail bed will usually get a longer wear from a shorter tip.

For a very curved nail, use a Sculpted tip and pinch the sides during the cure so the tip follows the curve. For a very flat nail, expect a gap under the center and use a little extra Extend Gel, being sure to remove any excess before curing. For uneven nails (for example, one wider thumb), size each finger by itself.

If a client has a nail injury, a fungal infection or a painful, lifted nail, do not cover it. See a doctor or dermatologist first.

Stocking tips for a busy table

If you apply Gel-X every day, you will use some sizes much more than others. Most clients cluster in the middle sizes, and a few need the largest and smallest. Keep refill bags of the middle sizes in your favorite shape and length, and a full tip box for each shape you offer.

We stock Apres Tip Box 2.0 in Natural and Sculpted tips, and refill bags by size number. We also carry Extend Gel, pH Bonder, Primer, Prep and the non-wipe top coat, so you can restock the full system in one trip. Browse Gel-X or ask at any of our four stores. For the full application, start with the Gel-X guide.

Questions we get at the counter